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Transmission Fluid and Filter Change 00-01 MPV

Author: 98SVT-00MPV
Date: Wed Jun 18, 2003 1:18 pm

What you will need:

5 quarts of ATF M-III Or Equivalent e.g. Mercon (R)
ATF Filter Mazda P/N FU9A-20-500 $16.35
AFT Filter O-Ring P/N FU01-21-514A $2.70
ATF Pan Gasket P/N BN97-21-512A $12.25

10mm socket
10mm allen head socket
3/8" drive ratchet
3-6" extension
drain pan (large opening to capture all fluid from the pan)
plastic scraper
rags, etc

How to:

What I did was put my vehicle up on ramps the night before and let the transmission cool overnight. After the vehicle is up on ramps and you've set the parking brake and allowed the vehicle to cool, is position the drain pan under the drain plug in the differential. The drain plug is flat with the bottom of the differential. I.E. it has the same orientation as the filter pan bolts and NOT the valve body bolts in the front of the transmission. This drain plug takes the 10mm Allen Head socket for removal. Mine was on pretty tight, so it will take a bit of effort to break free.

When you drain this fluid, you will get about 2L or about 2quarts and 4 oz. I will probably drain and refill that amount of fluid every spring oil change. (I do two oil changes a year on my van 10K avg annual mileage.)

While the differential is draining you can begin to remove the plastic cover underneath the transmission. You really only need to remove three of the five bolts as you can bend it away. One of the three bolts is a bit sneaky since it holds the front bumper cover in place.

After the fluid has drained from the differential (you should get about 2L from the diff) put the drain plug back in place, and move the drain pan under the small pan. Begin by loosening each of the bolts (there are a bunch of them.) Just break them all loose right now. Then starting at the back ( it should be pretty obvious where you can drain out fluid ) begin to completely remove the screws. You can loosen the front screws so the back of the pan begins to tilt and begin draining into your drain pan.

You may have to tap or pry on the back of the pan, don't pry with anything metal since the case is aluminum. As the fluid begins to drain, begin to remove more bolts from the back and loosen bolts in the front so the pan can tilt more.

Eventually, you will get to the point where you have 3-4 bolts in the front. At this point it's probably a good idea to hold the pan against the transmission and hand remove the remaining bolts, again being careful not to spill transmission fluid.

Keeping the pan level, pull it out and inspect the fluid. Your fluid may be a dark red, this is fine as long as it is not burnt. If the fluid smells burnt, put new fluid in, take the van to Iffy Lube for their flush and trade the van Wink Or if you don't plan to do that, then just start saving for a transmission overhaul you may need in the future.

Once the pan is down, you've inspected the fluid and then drained it into your drain pan, you still need to change the filter. The filter is held in place by three bolts. Remove them with your 10mm socket and ratchet. Be careful as fluid will come out of the filter when you remove it from the transmission. The filter has an o-ring on it, make sure it comes out with the filter.

Take your new filter, and place the new o-ring on the round portion of the filter that goes into what must be the oil pump pickup, and bolt the filter in place. (Again, the case is aluminum, so don't go at this with your impact wrench.)

You need to clean the pan. Take out the two magnets in the bottom of the pan and clean them off. You will probably find fine bits of black attached to them. This is normal. If you find big chunks of metal shavings, see the note for what to do about burnt fluid above Wink

It seems my pan did not have a traditional gasket, but instead was just sealed in place with silicone sealant. Use your plastic scraper to remove this sealant. This was by far the longest part of the job.

I then cleaned my pan with engine cleaner, followed by a rinse with the old transmission fluid (to get the silicone sealant out) rinse with water, dryed with a lint free cloth, and a final rinse with 8oz of new transmission fluid. (You want to work in a clean environment.)

Replace the magnets. There are dimples in the pan that indicate where the two round magnets go. Put the new gasket on the pan and start each bolt before you begin tightening them fully.

I then ran them down finger tight, and finally I went around with the ratchet, doing every other bolt. There are an odd number of bolts, so two laps will get them on. Again, I did these pinky tight (I don't have an in-lbs torque wrench) since the case is aluminum.

Replace the plastic cover at this time.

I then took a clean funnel and filled the transmission with 4 quarts and 4oz of fluid at the dipstick. This is how much fluid came out based on 2L from the diff and 2qts from the pan.

Replace the dipstick, start the engine, let it idle a bit. Then run the transmission through the gears. Be careful, you are still on the ramps. Check for leaks. If everything is fine, release the parking brake, and back off the ramps, and take the vehicle for a test drive.

Once the transmission is warm, check the fluid one final time according to the instructions in the owners manual. If too low, add more fluid.

Depending on what fluid you choose, this operation should cost from $45 to $60 and about two hours of your time from start to finish.



OBTW, here is a diagram that shows the Pan (6), Filter (5) (Called the Oil Strainer) and O-ring

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